Qanday qilib yog'och ramka konservatoriyasini qurish kerak



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Kirish

Men har doim xotinimga konservatoriyaga va'da berganman va erta nafaqaga chiqqanimda, bu va'dani bajarish vaqti kelganiga qaror qildim.

Keyin qabul qilishimiz kerak bo'lgan qaror quyidagilar edi:

  1. "Rafdan" konservatoriyani sotib oling; tayyor shaklda to'plam, bu faqat siz, pudratchi yoki quruvchi tomonidan saytda o'rnatishni talab qiladi.
  2. Bittasini professional tarzda qurib oling.
  3. O'zim loyihalash va qurish.

Variantlar

Konservatoriyani o'zim quraman degan oldindan xulosa qilingan edi, ammo yakuniy qaror qabul qilishdan oldin boshqa variantlarni ko'rib chiqish hali ham oqilona; va bunda, xarajatlardan tashqari, ularni kamroq jozibador qilgan boshqa omillar:

  1. Tayyorlangan konservatoriya mavjud maydondan yaxshi foydalana olmaydi va bizning talablarimizga mos kelmaydi. shimolga qaragan tomoni shishadan ko'ra devor bo'lish istagi.
  2. Konservatoriyani professional tarzda qurishga kelsak, agar men qurilishni loyihalashtirmagan bo'lsam va loyihani boshqarmasam, mahalliy quruvchini haqiqiy qurilishni amalga oshirish uchun yollasam; ingliz quruvchisi g'isht devorlari ustiga konservatoriyani qurmoqchi.

Britaniyada bo'shliq devorlarini qurish odatiy holdir, ular bugungi kunda gil g'ishtdan yasalgan tashqi devor va shamol shamoli (beton) ichki devor bo'lib, izolyatsiya bilan to'ldirilgan 100 mm (4 dyuym) bo'shliq bilan ajratilgan.

Ushbu variantlarning barchasini sinchkovlik bilan ko'rib chiqib, yakuniy qaror qabul qilishimizga yordam bergan uchta loyiha menejmenti xarajatlar, sifat va vaqt edi.

Narxi

Birinchi ikkita variant juda qimmatga tushishi mumkin; uni o'zim qurayotganda, keyinchalik uni sezilarli darajada arzonlashtiradigan barcha mehnat xarajatlarini qisqartirar edim.

Sifat

Boshqa ikkita variantni ko'rib chiqing:

  • Garchi tayyor konservatoriya eng yuqori standartlarga muvofiq ishlab chiqarilgan bo'lsa-da (bugungi kunda derazalar, eshiklar va tomlar uchun uPVC moslamalari), ammo bu oxirgi bino maqbul standartga, estetik jihatdan va bizning didimizga mos bo'lishi sharti bilan emas edi.
  • Ishonchim komilki, obro'li quruvchi yaxshi ish olib boradi va bizning intilishlarimizni qondira oladi, agar qurilishni loyihalashtirish va loyihalashtirishni boshqarish sharti bilan, men xohlagan narsani yuqori sifatga etkazish va uni o'zim ancha arzonroq qurishim mumkinligiga ishonchim komil edi. g'isht bilan qurilgan bog 'shiyponlarini avvalgi tajribamga asoslanib, yillar oldin qurganman.

Vaqt

Vaqt asosiy omil emas edi, chunki bizda uni qish oldidan qurish istagidan boshqa muddat yo'q edi.

Yog'och ramka va boshqa g'ishtlar qurilgan

Bizning tanlovimiz

Shuning uchun, barcha variantlarni ko'rib chiqib, yakuniy qarorimiz tabiiyki, men konservatoriyani o'zim loyihalashtiraman va quraman (bir nechta do'stlarimning yordami bilan).

Shuningdek, biz qaror qildik:

  • Konservatoriya odatdagi g'isht o'rniga yog'och ramka qurilishi bo'ladi; kosmik cheklov tufayli.
  • Men qurishni erta bahorda boshlar edim, kuzga qadar tugashni rejalashtirganman; (bu o'sha paytda faqat dekabrda bo'lgani kabi) menga dizayn va manbasini yakunlash, narxini aniqlash va materiallarga buyurtma berish uchun bir necha oy vaqt berdi.

Byudjet

Qurilish uchun men belgilagan byudjet 5000 funtni (6500 dollar) tashkil etdi. Barcha materiallarni narxlash va xarajatlarni qoplashdan so'ng (etkazib berish xarajatlari bilan birga) biz 500 funt sterlingni (700 dollar) byudjetga sarfladik, bu menga dizayndagi ba'zi materiallarni yangilash imkoniyatini berdi.

Xususan men tanladim:

  • Odatdagidan (va arzonroq qarag'ay yoki archa) emas, balki sadr daraxtining qoplamasi.
  • Loydan yasalgan plitalar yoki shiferlardan ko'ra tomga sadr yog'och plitalari; bu Buyuk Britaniyadagi uylarning an'anaviy tom yopishidir.

Keyinchalik qurilish jarayonida xotinim qattiq eman yog'ochdan yasalgan polni xohlaganiga qaror qildi, bu qo'shimcha xarajatlarga 500 funt sterling (700 dollar) qo'shdi; Ammo men buni mahalliy melioratsiya hovlisidan ikki qavatli oynali katta derazani etkazib berish bilan birga atigi 60 funt sterling (80 dollar) evaziga sotib olib, orqaga tortdim. Ikkinchi qo'l oynasi, men byudjet qilgan yangi oyna birligidagi xarajatlarni tejaydi.

Shunday qilib, mening dastlabki qurilish texnik xususiyatlarim yangilanganiga qaramay, biz hali ham byudjetga tushdik; va o'z vaqtida, chunki butun qurilish atigi to'rt oy davom etdi. Bundan tashqari, arzonroq yog'ochdan foydalanish o'rniga qattiq eman taxtasi va sadr daraxtining qoplamasi bilan yakuniy qurilish bizning kutganimizdan oshdi (Sifat).

Buyuk Britaniyada rozilik va qurilish qoidalarini rejalashtirish

Men Amerikada qanday ishlashiga amin emasman, lekin Buyuk Britaniyada rejalashtirish uchun ruxsat olish kerakmi yoki "ruxsat etilgan rivojlanish" ga kiradimi yoki yo'qmi degan savolga Mahalliy hokimiyat (Mahalliy hukumat) bilan murojaat qilish tavsiya etiladi va barcha binolarga to'liq mos keladi. Qurilishga tegishli qoidalar.

Masalan, Buyuk Britaniyada qurilgan barcha konservatoriya uchun Qurilish qoidalari asosida qo'yilgan tegishli shartlarga javob beradigan to'g'ri poydevor qo'yilishi kerak.

Bizga rioya qilishimiz kerak bo'lgan Qurilish qoidalarini soddalashtirish uchun biz mehmonxonamizdagi qadimgi tik daraxtli frantsuz eshiklarini yangi "tashqi" uPVC frantsuz eshiklari bilan almashtirishni tanladik; yashash xonasi va konservatoriya o'rtasida ichki eshikka ega bo'lishdan ko'ra. Shu munosabat bilan. Agar biz ichki eshikni o'rnatgan bo'lsak, u holda Buyuk Britaniyadagi Rejalashtirish qonunlariga binoan konservatoriya "yashash maydoni" deb tasniflangan bo'lar edi; va keyin Qurilish qoidalari yanada qattiqroq bo'ladi, masalan. uyingizda kamida 200 mm (8 dyuym) izolyatsiya. Konservatoriyani ikki xonali (yashash xonasi va konservatoriya) orasidagi "tashqi" eshik bilan uydan ajratib turganda, qurilish qoidalari bo'yicha konservatoriya (ayvon kabi) "yashash uchun mo'ljallanmagan joy" deb tasniflanadi.

Dizayn kontseptsiyasi

Istaklar va cheklovlar

Shubhasiz bizning xohishimiz, har qanday cheklovlar doirasida konservatoriyani iloji boricha kattaroq bo'lish edi. Men istagan minimal kenglik 2,7 metr (9 fut) va ideal uzunlik 3,6 metr (12 fut) edi.

Kenglikdagi cheklovlar faqat chegara emas edi (Buyuk Britaniyadagi chegara chizig'ida buning uchun ruxsatni rejalashtirmasdan qura olmaysiz), shuningdek, bir tomonning chegara yaqinidagi havo o'tkazgichi va boshqa tomonida drenaj quvurlari. Bundan tashqari, loyihalashtirishning bir qismi sifatida blokirovka qilinmasligini ta'minlashim kerak bo'lgan havo havosi ham mavjud edi.

Aniq o'lchovlarni amalga oshirganimda, menda o'ynash uchun atigi 3 metr (10 fut) bor edi. Devorlarning qalinligini hisobga olgan holda, odatdagi g'isht qurishni va izolyatsiyani tanlaganimda, ichki makonning maksimal kengligi 2,4 metrni (8 fut) tashkil etgan bo'lar edi. Yog'ochdan yasalgan karkas qurilishi bilan men istagan 2,7 metrga (9 fut) to'liq erishishim mumkin edi.

Bu bizning qarorimizni g'ishtdan ko'ra yog'ochdan yasalgan ramka bo'lgan yagona omil edi.

Balandlikka kelsak; mening xavotirim shundan iborat ediki, bizning bog'da shimolga qaragan qo'shnining chegarasiga juda yaqin qurish orqali yorug'likni kesib tashlash va qo'shnimizning bog'iga soya solib qo'yish xavfi paydo bo'lishi mumkin edi. Shuning uchun men tomning chizig'ini iloji boricha pastroq qilishni xohlar edim, shu bilan birga bizning qurilish istaklarimizga putur etkazmasligim kerak edi.

Shu munosabat bilan quyosh tushgacha uylarni tozalamaydi, bu vaqtda uning osmonda balandligi; Bu tomning chizig'ini oqilona balandlikda bo'lishini anglatar edi, tepadan tushgan soya chegara devoriga urilib, qo'shnilarimiz bog'ida hech qanday soyalarni keltirib chiqarmaydi.

Shunga qaramay, qo'shnichilik qilish uchun men tepalik tomini tanladim, chunki ingl. Bu bizning qo'shnilarimiz uchun unchalik og'ir bo'lmaydi; va men qurilishni boshlashdan oldin o'z niyatlarimni oldindan aytib (to'liq ma'lumot berib) va ularning roziligini so'rab, qo'shnim bilan yaxshi munosabatda bo'ldim.

Orqa devor

Dastlabki rejamda men shimol tomonga qarab orqa devorda stakan bo'lmaslikni rejalashtirgan edim va shu sababli quyoshga tushmayman; bundan tashqari u 1,5 metrlik chegara devoriga qaragan. Biroq, men qurilishni boshlaganimda, menga yordam beradigan do'stim mahalliy melioratsiya maydonchasida har biri atigi 5 funt sterling (7 dollar) evaziga juda jozibali qo'rg'oshinli rangli shisha derazalarni ko'rdi. Shuning uchun men darhol u erga ko'tarildim va barcha aktsiyalarni sotib oldim.

Yoqimli derazalar uyumini sotib olib, darhol ularni orqa devorning yuqori qismiga qo'shib qo'yish rejamni o'zgartirdim.

Skylights

Yorug'likni maksimal darajaga ko'tarish uchun plitkali tomni (stakan o'rniga) tanlaganimizda, men bir nechta peshtoqlarni dizaynga kiritdim; katta janubga qarab, kichikroq g'arbga osmonga qarab. Yoritgichlarga ega bo'lish, tekis shift variantini chiqarib tashladi; baribir biz xohlaganimizni emas.

Qurilish

Jamg'arma

Yog'och ramka qurishga qaror qilgan bo'lsak-da, qurilish qoidalariga muvofiq tuzilmani tegishli asoslarda qurishimiz kerak edi; Buyuk Britaniyadagi tafsilotlar uchun siz mahalliy hokimiyat (mahalliy hukumat) bilan maslahatlashishingiz kerak bo'ladi. "Qurilish qoidalari" (Buyuk Britaniyada standart bo'lgan) talablaridan biri DPC (Nam Namunali Kurs) er sathidan 150 mm (6 dyuym) balandlikda bo'lishi kerak.

Bunga erishish uchun ushbu balandlikka beton plita pastki qavatini yoki g'isht devorlarini yotqizish kerak. Biz g'ishtdan yasalgan devorni tanladik, u holda nam o'tkazmaydigan membrana ustiga yotqizilgan beton bilan to'ldiriladi; yog'och konstruktsiyani o'rnatmasdan oldin g'isht ustiga qo'yilgan DPC ostiga yotqizish uchun membrananing yon tomonlarini g'isht atrofida tortib olish bilan. Shu tarzda butun poydevor va uning ustiga yog'och ramka qurilishi namlik va ko'tarilish namligidan ajratilgan.

Buning oldidagi birinchi qadam tashqi devor uchun poydevor xandaqini qazish (Qurilish qoidalari shartlariga muvofiq) va uni beton bilan to'ldirish edi. Beton o'rnatilgandan so'ng biz 150 mm (6 dyuym) tashqi devorni qurishimiz mumkin.

Do'stimiz yordamida, poydevor devorini qurib, nam o'tkazmaydigan membranani yotqizganimizdan so'ng, maydonni beton bilan to'ldirishdan oldin oyoq izi ostiga qo'yib, barcha molozlardan qutuldik.

Dastlabki rejani o'zgartirish

Dastlab men konservatoriyaning ichki uzunligini 3,6 metr (12 fut) qilib ishlab chiqarishni rejalashtirgandim va dizaynga moslashish uchun mahalliy DIY do'koni uchun ikkita yangi oynali oynalarni sotib oldim. Ammo, biz ish boshlashga ozgina vaqt qolganida, men mahalliy melioratsiya maydonchasidan katta qo'l bilan ikki qavatli oynali oynani etkazib berishni o'z ichiga olgan atigi 60 funt sterling (80 dollar) evaziga ko'tarib oldim. Ammo rejalashtirganimdan kattaroq bo'lgani uchun, derazani joylashtirish uchun konservatoriyaning uzunligini 4 metrga (13 fut) etkazishim kerak edi.

Qayta ishlangan g'ishtlar

Qurilish uchun yangi g'isht sotib olishdan ko'ra, men mahalliy quruvchimiz savdogaridan qayta ishlangan g'ishtlarni etkazib berishga muvaffaq bo'ldim; bu byudjetga ozgina pul tejashga imkon berdi. Odatda ular faqat yangi g'ishtlarni sotishadi, lekin buyurtma berish uchun kelganimda, bir burchakda ular yaqinda buzib tashlangan mahalliy zavoddan sotib olgan yuqori sifatli qayta ishlangan g'ishtlarning topshirig'ini ko'rdim. G'ishtlar nafaqat arzon edi, balki dastlab og'ir sanoat fabrikasini qurish uchun ishlatilgan bo'lib, ular odatdagi uy g'ishtidan zichroq va biroz kattaroq edi.

Menga poydevor qo'yishda yordam beradigan do'stim.

Yog'och ramka

Poydevor o'rnatilgandan so'ng (bajarish kerak bo'lgan bir ozgina santexnika ishidan tashqari) men yog'och ramka devorlari va tomida qurilishni boshlashga tayyor edim. Devorlar ikkita paneli (old va orqa devorlar) sifatida qurilgan bo'lib, ular bir uchida uyga o'rnatilgandir va old tomonida tom plitasi bilan o'rnatilgandir.

Yoritgichlarni kiritmoqchi bo'lganimda, men tomning o'zaro faoliyat nurlarini odatdagidan balandroq qilib qo'ydim, lekin har qanday potentsial pog'onani (tom devorni itarib yuborgan joyni) bir nechta mustahkamlovchi nur bilan qopladim; keyinchalik bu dizaynning bir qismi sifatida xususiyatlarga aylanadi.

Chunki bu konservatoriya edi, masalan. asosan shisha, faqat bitta yoki ikkita derazaga ega bo'lgan kengaytma emas, garchi tom plitasi tomning og'irligining asosiy qismini oladi, deraza va eshiklar strukturaviy yordamga qo'shiladi.

Shuning uchun, deraza va eshiklarni o'rnatishdan oldin tom yopiladigan oddiy qurilishdan farqli o'laroq, men buni aksincha qilishim kerak edi. Agar men Buyuk Britaniyada bunday qurilishda odatdagidek loy yoki shifer plitalarini tanlaganimda, tomi juda og'ir bo'lar edi va men uni qo'llab-quvvatlash uchun temir nurlarni o'rnatishga majbur bo'lar edim.

Biroq, tomga sadr yog'och plitalarini tanlagan (ular ancha engilroq), bu odatiy ingliz tomiga nisbatan katta yordamga muhtoj emas. Shunday qilib, butun qurilish ancha engilroq va uni qurish ancha arzon edi; ko'proq daraxtdan bog 'shiyponi qurishga o'xshaydi.

Santexnika

Dastlab, hammomdagi chiqindi trubkasi qurilish yo'lida bo'lishi aniq edi. Yog'ochdan yasalgan ramka qurishni boshlashdan oldin, men mahalliy DIY do'konlaridan biriga mos keladigan sig'adigan quvur liniyasi va trubka uchun yopishtiruvchi naychani sotib oldim, so'ngra vannadan chiqindilarni tezda qayta yo'naltirdim.

Windows va eshiklar

Shishani qayta ishlash

Qurilish dizayni doirasida biz eski frantsuz eshiklarini yashash xonasidan yangi uPVC frantsuz eshiklari bilan almashtirishga qaror qildik. Biroq, eski eshiklarni tashlab qo'yish o'rniga, ikki qavatli oynalarni olib chiqib, ularni konservatoriya dizayniga qo'shib, qayta ishlashga qaror qildim; va tik eshiklarini kelajakdagi DIY loyihalarida qayta ishlatish uchun ustaxonamda saqlang.

Dizaynga kiritilgan o'zgartirishlar

Qayta ishlangan ikki oynali oynani va orqa devorni qo'rg'oshinli rangli shisha derazalar uchun joylashtirish uchun old devorni o'zgartirishim kerak edi; bularning hammasini mahalliy melioratsiya hovlisidan oldim.

Bundan tashqari, qurilishni boshlaganimdan so'ng, menga yordam beradigan do'stlarimdan biri veranda eshiklari yonida, old tomoni uchun bir nechta rangli stakan berishni taklif qildi. Dastlab, men shunchaki sadr yog'och qoplamasi bilan qoplashni rejalashtirgandim; ammo oldingi ramka qismiga ozgina o'zgartirish kiritib, rangli shisha uchun teshiklarni o'rnatishga muvaffaq bo'ldim.

Windows-ni qayta tiklash

Qo'rg'oshinli shisha derazalarni atigi 5 funt sterlingga (7 AQSh dollari) sotib olib, ularni qayta tiklash va konservatoriyaning orqa devorining yuqori qismiga moslash uchun qirqish kerak edi.

Menga melioratsiya maydonchasida ularni ko'rgan do'stim taklif qilgan birinchi tushuncha, stakanni yog'och ramkalardan olib tashlash va ularni bitta uzun derazaga qayta joylashtirish edi. Bu jozibali g'oya edi va men sinab ko'rdim, lekin birinchi urinishimda shisha panellardan biri yorilib ketdi; baxtga mening bir nechta zaxira derazalarim bor edi, shuning uchun bu katta falokat emas edi.

Shuning uchun, men har bir oynani alohida-alohida tozalash va yon tomonlarini qirqish uchun ko'proq mashaqqatli yo'lga joylashdim, shunda ular birlashtirilib, har bir deraza orasidagi yog'och kulgili darajada keng bo'lmaydi.

Yaltiroq bo'yoq eski edi va yillar davomida elementlarga ta'sir qilar edi, shilimshiq edi va juda osonlikcha olib tashlandi. Bir marta men bo'yoqning katta qismini (barcha bo'shashgan narsalarni) olib tashladim, keyin qolgan bo'yoqlarni olib tashladim va kamar zımpara bilan yalang'och yog'ochga qaytdim; Men uni boshqa oynani yorib yubormoqchi bo'lmaganim uchun juda zo'rlik bilan ishlatardim. Shisha ham ramkaga mahkam o'rnashgan va zımpara tebranishlariga bardoshli ekanligi isbotlangan bo'lsa-da, tiklanish jarayonida ishonchim ortdi. Shuning uchun, ramkalarni kattalashtirish haqida gap ketganda, men ularning hammasini qo'l bilan kesmasdan, elektr arra ishlatishga ishonchim komil edi.

Ularni kattalashtirgandan so'ng, men derazalarning old tomonlarini ramkalash uchun tirgaklar sifatida pastga tushirdim va kesib oldim.

Qo'rg'oshin oynali oynalardan eski bo'yoqlarni olib tashlash.

Ikkinchi darajali oynalar

Barcha qo'rg'oshinli shisha derazalar va 3 mm (dyuymning sakkizinchi qismi) rangli oynaning uchta varag'i yog'och ramkaga o'rnatilgandan so'ng, men plastinka oynani tashqi tomonga o'rnatdim. Plitka oynasini deraza oynasidan taxminan 12 mm (yarim dyuym) ga ajratish uchun boncuklardan foydalanish; va plastinka oynasini sirlangan silikon bilan mahkamlang. Tashqi tomondan laminatlangan plastinka oynasi ikkita maqsadga xizmat qiladi:

  • Qish mavsumida konservatoriyani iliqroq saqlashga yordam beradigan ikkilamchi oynalarni yaratadi.
  • Ichki qismidagi nozik oynaga mukammal himoya beradi.

Ikkita sirlangan bo'linmalarni o'rnatish

Melioratsiya maydonchasidan sotib olgan ikkinchi qo'l ikki oynali deraza va yangi verandaning eshiklari yomon hayvon edi; ularning og'irligi tufayli men ularni o'zim jihozlay olmadim. Shunday qilib, er-xotin do'stlarimiz yordamida oynani oynadan olib tashladik va birgalikda joyiga ko'tardik. So'ngra takozlar bilan tekislanganda yarim soat davomida barcha stakanlarni ramkaga o'rnatib qo'ying. Xuddi shu tarzda, veranda eshiklari uchligimizdan uni manevr qilishimiz kerak edi; lekin bir marta ular buyuk ko'rinishga ega edilar. Keyin yana biron bir ishni davom ettirishdan oldin uni tartibga solish va ob-havoga qarshi muhrni ta'minlash uchun uPVC trimini yuqori va yon qirralarning (ichki va tashqi) atrofiga o'rnatdik; trimani silikon bilan joyiga yopishtirish, iloji boricha qisqichlar bilan mahkam ushlab, silikon tez yopishguncha.

OSB3 va Underfelt

Yog'och ramka va tomning konstruktsiyasi o'rnatilgandan so'ng, deraza va eshiklar (shu jumladan, derazalar) men tashqi tomonni OSB3 taxtasi bilan qoplashga muvaffaq bo'ldim; OSB3 tashqi foydalanish uchun mos.

Keyingi bosqich butun tuzilmani etaksiz (havo o'tkazmaydigan suv o'tkazmaydigan membrana) bilan o'rash edi. Ilgari u shunchaki sezilgan bo'lar edi, lekin namat nafas ololmaydi va pastki qismida namlik yoki kondensatsiya paydo bo'lishi har doim nam va chirishga olib kelishi mumkin. Zamonaviy materiallar bilan yog'ochdagi har qanday namlik yoki kondensatsiya endi membranadan chiqib ketishi mumkin, shu bilan birga membrana (suv o'tkazmaydigan) suvning tuzilishga kirib ketishiga yo'l qo'ymaydi.

OSB3 taxtalarini o'rnatib, devor va tomning tagiga kirmasdan keyin, men derazalarni qo'shib, tashqi qismini devorlarga sadr o'tinlari va tomidagi sadr yog'och plitalari bilan qoplashim mumkin edi.

Skylights

Mening janubga qaragan tomimda ikkita standart osmono'par oynani sig'dira oladigan darajada joyim bor edi, lekin ularni qayta tiklaganimda, kengligi 1,2 metr (4 fut) bo'lgan ikkita kenglikdagi nurli eshikka duch keldim, bu shunchaki ikkita 600 mm sotib olishdan ko'ra arzonroq ishlamadi ( 2 fut) osmon yoritgichlari, ammo ideal edi, chunki bu o'rtada bitta katta tom oynasi bo'lishi mumkin edi.

G'arbga qaragan tomga kelsak, uning shakli va hajmi tufayli, masalan. tepalik tomi, cheklangan joy bor edi; juda kichkina, odatiy nurga mos kelmaydi. Biroq, men faqatgina bo'sh joyga mos keladigan kichkinagina manbani topishga muvaffaq bo'ldim.

Yoritgichlarni o'rnatishdan oldin (yog'och ramka qurilganidan keyin) avval tomni OSB3 plitalari bilan qoplashim kerak edi, so'ngra taxtalarni nafas oladigan membrana bilan his qildim. Keyin o'rnatish paytida tomning plitalari ostiga kirib ketadigan suvni xavfsiz oqizish uchun katta membranani (aksessuar sifatida keladigan) nafas oladigan membrana ostiga qo'ying. Kichkina osmon yoritgichi uchun men o'zimning yoqamni silikon yordamida yasashga majbur bo'ldim.

Katta yorug 'uchun ramka tomning nurlari bilan mahkamlanib, keyin sirlangan bo'linma keyinchalik joyiga o'rnatildi. Katta osmon yoritgichini o'rnatish ikki kishini talab qildi, chunki ikki qavatli derazaga o'xshab, derazaning o'zi bir kishining ko'tarib ushlab turishi va uni ramkaga o'rnatishi uchun juda og'ir edi.

Bu amalga oshirilgandan so'ng, men chiroqlar yonib-o'chib turadigan joyni chiroqlar atrofiga o'rnatib qo'ydim; miltillovchi vazifasi - yomg'ir suvini osmon yo'llari atrofida va tomga qaytarish.

O'rnatish bo'yicha yo'riqnomada (masalan, ko'pchilik professional qurilishchilar buni e'tiborsiz qoldirishgan) bitta maslahatga binoan, derazani xonaning kengroq joyiga tarqatish uchun ichki tomonni burchakka burish kerak edi; huni o'rniga.

G'arbga qaragan tomga kichkina osmon yoritgichi o'rnatilgan.

Sidr yog'ochlarini qoplash

Kenglik cheklanganligi sababli yog'och ramkani tanlaganim sababli, men Buyuk Britaniyada odatdagi qoplamalar bilan ta'minlangan barcha parvarish va parvarishlash haqida o'ylamagan edim; men uni oddiy bog 'shiyponiga o'xshashini xohlamadim.

Odatda Britaniyada, chunki uylar odatda g'ishtdan qurilgan va qoplama odatda faqat bog 'shiyponlari uchun ishlatiladi, mavjud bo'lgan eng keng tarqalgan qoplama faqat qarag'ay yoki archa bo'lib qoladi; osongina chirigan va muntazam parvarish qilishni talab qiladigan ikkita yumshoq o'rmon.

Shunday qilib, ushbu mavzu bo'yicha tadqiqotlar olib borganimdan so'ng, sadr yog'ochi (garchi ancha qimmat bo'lsa ham) yog'ochdagi tabiiy yog'lar tufayli yaxshi himoya xususiyatiga ega bo'lganligi sababli yaxshi alternativ bo'ladi degan xulosaga keldim. Tabiiy yog'lar tufayli sadr daraxti zamburug'larga ham, hasharotlarga ham chidamli bo'lib, oltmish yil va undan uzoqroq umr ko'rishi mumkin.

Shu sababli, barcha mahalliy etkazib beruvchilarning veb-saytlarini tekshirgandan so'ng, men sadr yog'ochlari bilan qoplaydigan mahalliy savdogarni topdim; va mening talablarimni hisoblab chiqqandan so'ng, ulardan yuqori sifatli (ammo qimmat) zangga chidamli mixlar bilan birga etkazib berishni buyurdim.

Bir marta men qoplamani osongina va tezda tuzatdim; va ish tugagandan so'ng konservatoriyaga men umid qilgan "voy" omilini berdi.

Konservatoriya sadr daraxti bilan qoplangan.

Sidr yog'och tomi

Ideal holda men konservatoriyani gil yoki shifer plitkalar bilan qoplashni afzal ko'rgan bo'lardim (afzalroq shifer); Buyuk Britaniya uchun standart tom yopish materiallari. Boshqa tom yopish materiallaridan ustunligi ularning chidamliligi; loy plitka yoki shifer tomi o'rnatilgandan so'ng, asrlar davomida minimal parvarish qilinmasdan xizmat qilishi mumkin.

Biroq, bunday tom yopish materiallari og'ir va ularni mening qurilishimda ishlatish uchun og'irlikni olish uchun temir nurlarni o'rnatish kerak bo'ladi. Shuning uchun, dizayn bosqichida men muqobil variantlarni, shu jumladan namat shingillarni (ko'pincha Amerika uylarida ishlatiladi) ko'rib chiqdim. Biroq, Buyuk Britaniyada kigiz shingillalar faqat peshtoq tomlarida qo'llaniladi va shu sababli Britaniyadagi konservatoriya tomida biroz naff ko'rinadi; ortiqcha ular men xohlagancha bardoshli emasligi masalasi.

Shuning uchun, tadqiqotlarim davomida sadr yog'och plitalari haqida o'qishni boshlaganimda juda hayajonlandim; men unga qarab ko'proq hayajonlandim, chunki bu quyidagicha materialdir:

  • Tabiiy yog'i tufayli saqlanish xususiyati tufayli 60 yilgacha davom etishi mumkin.
  • Ajoyib ko'rinadi; va men vizual effektga mos ravishda.
  • Tomga ozgina og'irlik qo'shadigan juda engil material.

Faqatgina salbiy tomoni shundaki, plitkalar juda qimmat; ammo har bir tinga arziydi.

Keyingi o'rganishim kerak bo'lgan narsa - tomga sadr yog'och plitalarini qanday qilib tuzatish kerak edi; loy yoki slanets plitkalarini yotqizishdan ancha farq qiladi. Shuning uchun rejalashtirish bosqichida men soatlab uni o'qib chiqdim va YouTube-da ko'plab videofilmlarni tomosha qildim.

Keyin nima qilishim kerakligiga ishonchim komil bo'lsa, etkazib beruvchini topishim kerak edi. Yaxshiyamki, men sadr yog'ochlarini qoplagan mana shu mahalliy yog'och savdogari ham sadr yog'och plitalarini etkazib beradi; Ular Kanadadan olib kiriladigan A sinf.

Yonib-o'chadigan qadam

Uyning devorini va konservatoriya tomini suv o'tkazmaydigan qilib yopishtirish uchun menga miltillovchi qadam qo'yish kerak edi. Ideal holda men qo'rg'oshindan foydalanishni xohlardim; va men uni sotib olishni xohladim. Shu bilan birga, manbalardan zamonaviy qo'rg'oshin o'rnini bosuvchi o'rnini topdim, u qo'rg'oshinga juda o'xshaydi (qo'rg'oshin kabi ko'rinadi va u kabi og'ir), lekin narxning yarmi.

Keyingi qadamni ishlatish uchun materialga qaror qilib, uyning devorini tomning plitalari o'rnatilgandan so'ng miltillovchi qadamga mos ravishda tayyorlash kerak edi. Buning uchun miltillovchi joyni siljitish uchun ohakdagi oluklarni qaerdan kesib olish kerakligini aniqlab olishim kerak edi.

Miltillovchi uchun jig

Oldin miltillovchi qadamni bajarmaganim, bu men uchun yana bir yangi ko'nikma edi. Shu munosabat bilan, turli xil DIY maqolalarini o'qib, YouTube videolarini tomosha qilgandan so'ng, men o'zimning jigimni (quyidagi videoda namoyish etilgan asbob asosida) bir nechta funktsiyalarni bajarishga qaror qildim:

  • Yoritishni moslashtirish uchun yoriqni kesish uchun devorga belgilash uchun chiziq beradi.
  • Shaklini qirqish uchun miltillovchi mos chiziqni beradi.
  • Yoritgichning chetini devorga moslash uchun egish uchun ishlatiladi.

Chiqib ketish, kesish va o'rnatish uchun jigdan foydalanish

Yog'och qoldiqlaridan yasalgan Jig uy g'ishtlarining balandligi (va umumiy kattaligi) bilan bir xil, shuning uchun u ohak bilan bir qatorda joylashgan. Yuqoridagi videoda ko'rsatilgandek, devorga bosilgan haqiqiy miltillovchi oynani ishlatish o'rniga, men kartonni miltillovchi bilan bir xil o'lchamda kesib oldim va shablonni tayyorlash uchun ishlatdim. Uyingizda kartonga belgi qo'yayotganda (xuddi miltillovchi kabi) men ohakdagi mos chiziqlarni (qalin nib flomaster bilan) belgilash uchun yasagan Jigdan ham foydalandim. Plitkalarni o'rnatmasdan oldin ohakdagi teshiklarni qaerdan kesib olishni belgilab, men plitalarning qo'shimcha qalinligi tomning balandligini qariyb bir dyuymga ko'tarishini bilardim. Bu miltillovchi holatni mos ravishda yuqoriga va bir tomonga surib qo'yadi. Shuning uchun, markirovka paytida, miltillovchi moslama uchun mo'l-ko'l yordam berish uchun ohakdagi chiziqni gorizontal ravishda ikkala yo'nalishda kengaytirdim.

Yog'och qoldiqlari yordamida jig tayyorlash: 2 dona uch chorak dyuymli qarag'ay va chorak dyuymli kontrplak.

Hamma narsani belgilab qo'ygandan so'ng, men burchakli tegirmondan ohakdagi belgilangan chiziqlar bo'ylab bir dyuymli chuqurliklarni kesib oldim. Keyin ustaxonada men belgilangan kartonni shaklga keltirish uchun kesib tashladim va shablonni ajratib ko'rsatish uchun uni shablon sifatida ishlatdim. Men tomda (videoda bo'lgani kabi) yonib-o'chib turganini o'zi belgilab olardim; ammo shunchaki og'ir bo'lmaganligi sababli shunchaki kartondan foydalanishni osonlashtirdim.

Plitka qo'yish

Bir-birining ustki qismida bir-birining ustiga chiqib ketishi uchun pog'onali gil va slanetsli plitkalardan farqli o'laroq, ikki qavatli chinni hosil qiladi. har bir plitkaning faqat pastki yarmi ko'rinadi, sadr daraxti uch qavatli, shuning uchun faqat pastki uchdan bir qismi (taxminan 5 dyuym) ko'rinadi.

Videotasvirlarni tomosha qilish, har bir qatorli plitkalarni joylashtirish uchun to'g'ri qo'llanma sifatida tom bo'ylab chiziq tortish kabi keng tarqalgan usul. Bu, albatta, chiroyli ishlov berishga imkon beradi, ammo har bir yangi qator uchun qo'llanmani qayta tiklash juda qiyin ko'rinadi, chunki siz tomga ko'tarilayotganda.

Mening ustuvorligim shuki, qoldiq yog'ochlardan pastki chet oldingi plitalarning pastki qismiga ko'tarilib, keyingi qatorda plitkalar uchun etakchini taqdim etadigan oddiy jigatel yasash edi. Ushbu usul yordamida qator haqiqiy gorizontaldan uzoqlasha boshlaydi. Shunday qilib, qatorlarni vizual ko'rish va ruhiy darajani vaqti-vaqti bilan ikki marta tekshirish muhimdir; shuning uchun agar sizning qatorlaringiz gorizontaldan uzoqlasha boshlasa, siz keyingi qatorda tez va osonlik bilan kompensatsiya qilishingiz mumkin.

G'arbiy qizil sadr: ma'lumot va o'rnatish bo'yicha ko'rsatmalar

Men balandlikdan juda xavotirlanmayman, lekin o'zimni xavfsiz his qilishni yaxshi ko'raman, shuning uchun har doim zinapoyalardan ehtiyotkorlik bilan foydalanaman va tomlar atrofida aylanib yurishdan hech qachon mamnun emasman. Sidr daraxtining tomlari ancha silliq, sadr osti yog'ochlari esa undan ham ko'proq yotqizilmoqda. Shuning uchun, plitkalarni yotqizishda men pastki qismni narvondan va tomning yuqori qismida plitkalarni tomning tizmasiga o'tirib, biroz pastga egilib yotqizdim.

Plitkalarni tomga mahkamlash uchun men sadr yog'och plitalari bilan ishlash uchun maxsus ishlab chiqarilgan va (oddiy mixlardan farqli o'laroq) zanglamaydigan maxsus zanglamaydigan po'lat mixlardan foydalanardim; oddiy tirnoqlarga qaraganda ancha qimmat, ammo yorqin.

Sidr shingilini qanday o'rnatish kerak

Plitka qo'yish tartibi:

  • Pastdan yuqoriga qarab ishlang, shuning uchun bir-birining ustiga chiqib ketish yomg'ir oqishiga imkon beradi.
  • Plitkalarni hech qachon birlashtirmang; har doim har bir plitka orasidagi dyuymli bo'shliqni saxiy qoldiring.
  • Taxminan bir yarim santimetr balandlikdagi saxiy o'sishni qoldiring; ariqqa yomg'ir suvi oqishini ta'minlash uchun.
  • Birinchi qavatdagi plitkalar orasidagi barcha bo'shliqlarni yopish uchun yuqori qavatni hayratda qoldirib, birinchi qatorni ikki qavatli qilib qo'ying.
  • Plitkalarning uzunligi taxminan 16 dyuym bo'lganligi sababli, siz plitkalarni uch barobar ko'paytirishingiz kerak, keyingi qatorni atigi 5 dyuymga qo'ying.
  • Har doim qo'shilish joylarini silkitib turing, shunda keyingi qatorda joylashgan plitkalar kamida 2 dyuym bilan har qanday birikmani qoplaydi.
  • Keyin har bir keyingi qatorni 5 dyuym balandroq qo'yishni davom eting.
  • Oxirgi qatorlar uchun har bir kafelning uzunligini tog 'tizmasida uchrashadigan qilib qisqartiring.
  • Kedrni sadr yog'och tizmalari bilan yoping.

G'arbga qaragan tomga qizil sadr plitalarini yotqizish

Guttering

Uyingizda qurib bo'lingandan so'ng, men facia taxtalarini, soffit va truba o'rnatib qo'yishim mumkin edi. Men sadr daraxtining qoplamasiga buyurtma berganimda, facia plitalari uchun qo'shimcha ravishda buyurtma berdim. Bundan tashqari, ilgari bizning uyimizda fasia taxtasi va soffit uPVC darajasiga ko'tarilgan edi, quruvchilar bizning orqa bog'imizda soffit varag'i qoldirishdi. Men bu bog'ning asosiy qismini (ustaxonam va oziq-ovqat do'konimizni) yangilash uchun ishlatgan edim, ammo konservatoriyaning old va janubiy tomonlarini bajarish uchun qolganim bor edi. Orqa tomon uchun men avvalgi loyihadan qolgan 90 mm x 6 mm uPVC trimning keng qismini ishlatdim; u ham yaxshi narsalar kabi ishlagan va juda yaxshi ko'rinishga ega.

Kanalizatsiya uchun, odatdagi profildan ko'ra qimmatroq bo'lsa-da, biz Ogee ni tanladik, chunki u biz izlayotgan uslubga juda mos edi. Uy uchun yomg'ir drenaji konservatoriyadan atigi bir necha metr narida edi, lekin yo'l trubkasi bilan chiqadigan trubkani er osti bo'ylab trubka oldida tuproq trubkasi oldidan yo'naltirishim kerak edi. Keyinchalik, keyinchalik qurilishda, u uchta vazifani bajaradigan taxta bilan yashiringan edi:

  • Drenaj va drenaj quvurlarini yashirish.
  • Ekish platformasi.
  • Mushukning qopqog'i uchun qadam.

Kanalizatsiya kanalizatsiyasidan uyning suv o'tkazgichiga tushadigan quvur.

Ichki ishlar

Tashqi tomondan asosiy inshootni qurib, suv o'tkazmaydigan konservatoriya bilan ichki makonga e'tibor qaratishim mumkin edi; voqealarning asosiy ketma-ketligi:

  • Izolyatsiya
  • Elektr simlari
  • Devor va shipga o'ralgan gips
  • Eman polini yotqizish
  • Etakka moslashtirish
  • Zaminli shamollatgichni qo'shish (AQShdan keltirilgan)
  • Elektr uchun oxirgi moslik
  • Bo'yash va bezash
  • Ba'zi mebellarni ko'chirishni boshlang
  • Yangi mushuk daraxti va magistral yo'lni o'rnatish
  • Qish paytida isitish uchun radiator qo'shiladi

Izolyatsiya

Devorlarga 50 mm x 100 mm (2 dyuym 4 dyuym) yog'ochdan foydalangan holda, men izolyatsiya uchun 4 dyuym bo'shliqqa ega bo'ldim; va shunga o'xshash tom uchun men 4 dyuymdan foydalanardim.

Elektr

Men elektrni o'zim bajara olsam ham, Buyuk Britaniyaning qonunchiligiga binoan elektr tarmog'iga ulanmasdan oldin malakali elektrikchi tomonidan ishni tekshirib, imzolashim kerak edi.

Biz shunchaki devor atrofidagi bir nechta rozetkalarni, shift chiroqlari uchun kalitni va tashqi chiroq uchun boshqa kalitlarni qo'shdik.

Gipsokarton

Gipslash mening forte emas, lekin gipsga ishlov berish. Gipsokartonning kulrang va oq ikki tomoni bor. Kulrang tomoni shundaki, agar siz gipsokarton ustiga shiva qilmoqchi bo'lsangiz; mutaxassislar odatdagidek; va oq tomoni shundaki, agar siz shunchaki devor qog'ozi yoki faqat gipsokarton ustiga emulsiya bo'yashni xohlasangiz.

Men ikkinchisini tanladim (oq tomoni), chunki men faqat gipsokartonni bo'yash va bezash bilan shug'ullanar edim, va avval uning ustiga gips po'stini qo'shmayman.

Eman pol va etek

Eman zaminini o'rnatishdan oldin men odatdagidek qavatdagi membranani va yog'och suzuvchi zaminning tagiga yotqizish uchun mo'ljallangan yashil izolyatsiya plitalarini yotqizdim. Keyin men eman taxtalarini yotqizdim, ularni yopishtirdim, lekin kengaytirish uchun qirralarning atrofida kerakli yarim dyuymli bo'shliqni qoldirdim; etak taxtasini joyiga o'rnatganimda bo'shliq yashiringan. Normally I would have used pine for the skirting board, but I had one piece of cedar wood cladding leftover, which when cut in half lengthways and profiled with the belt sander, was ideal.

Floor Vent

Once the floor was laid I could then fit the floor vent. The floor vent was my solutions for not blocking the subfloor air vent from the house. In Britain, under Building Regulations, there has to be adequate subfloor ventilation below the DPC (Damp Proof Course) to keep the space under the house (below the floor) ventilated to prevent damp.

My initial option was to channel the air vent from the house underneath the conservatory floor to the outside. However, I opted to just have the opening in floor of the conservatory, and put an air vent over the top of it.

The bonus is that it gives additional ventilation to the conservatory during the summer, but the downside is that (without the option to close it off) it can make the conservatory cold and draughty during the winter. To resolve this problem I wanted an air vent that was attractive, solid (strong) and with a grill that could be opened or closed. When I was sourcing this, I couldn’t find anything in the UK that met my requirements e.g. we don’t have air conditioning in British homes. Therefore I looked further afield and found in the USA what the Americans call a ‘Register’. I’m not quite sure what it’s intended purpose is but it was just ideal for what I wanted, so I ordered it from America, and after being held up in ‘Customs’ for a few weeks, eventually arrived.

Painting and Decorating

With the major build works finished it was then just a case of painting and decorating before fitting the light and moving the furniture in:

  • I used white emulsion on the ceiling.
  • Emulsion paint on the walls.
  • Painted the two cross beams a matt black.
  • Rubbed teak oil into the cedar wood skirting.
  • Wood stained the rest of the wood, which I then polished with bees wax.

Interior of conservatory completed: Solid oak floor laid, and pained and decorated.

Cat Tree and Highway

Once everything else was complete inside, I then built a new cat tree and cat highway, strong enough to support the weight of our Maine Coon cat; which is described in full details in a previous article.

Heating

Finally, I added a radiator in the conservatory for heating during the winter months, conveniently fitted just below the cats’ highway; which they love.

To get the radiator plumbed into the central heating the steps I took was to:

  • Pull up the appropriate floorboards in the living room to gain access to the water pipes.
  • Drill an 18mm hole through the adjoining brick wall between the living room and conservatory; using a long masonry drill bit because the house wall is 300mm (1 foot) thick. The pipes are 15mm but I wanted to use 18mm to give plenty of clearance when feeding the copper pipes through the brickwork.
  • Run feeds from the hot ‘out’ flow and ‘cool’ return pipes, and fed them through the brick wall into the conservatory.
  • Mount the radiator to the wall.
  • Connect the radiator to the copper pipes, adding a drain tap at the same time.

Decking

And Bells and Whistles

With the conservatory completed inside and out, all that remained to finish the finish the project was the decking, and a few bells and whistles, including the outside light, and a small iron cast bell which we picked up from a reclamation yard while on holiday; the details of which I covered in previous articles.

Patio doors of conservatory leading onto decking.

Questions & Answers

Question: Where did you obtain your cedar shiplap cladding? I live in the London area, but am unable to find anyone local who sells cedar shiplap cladding. Also, what size cladding boards did you use?

Answer: The shiplap cladding I used was Western Red Cedar, wood that is sustainably harvested from Canada, and imported by Bendrey Bros. Sawmill and Timber Retailer in Warmley, Bristol. Their phone number is 0117 9674382. The size I used was 25mm x 150mm (about 3m lengths), currently priced at £7.12 per metre. They also do tongue and groove at the same size and price.

A friend of mine living in Portsmouth had a similar problem regarding a specific cladding that he couldn’t get locally, so after talking to them over the phone, he hired a white van for the weekend and drove to Bristol to pick up the wood himself directly from the Timber Yard.

Question: You've produced a really impressive end result here, I really like it. I have a question in relation to whether you felt confident in whether the structure is still not subject to building regulations like a conservatory would be as it doesn't fully meet the criteria of being a conservatory as it doesn't have a mainly glazed roof?

Answer: You should always check with your ‘Local Authority’ (Local Government) prior to any proposed building works, as in the UK they are the ones who approve Building Regulations and grant Planning Permission.

However, in answer to your specific question, in accordance with advice given on the UK’s Planning Portal, the conservatory is a generic term to describe traditional conservatories, orangeries and glazed extensions; and the Portal goes onto explain that the modern trend is to replace paneled roofs with solid roofs to provide more usable space all year round.

The conservatory we’ve built is strictly an orangery e.g. less glazing on the walls and roof than a traditional conservatory e.g. a solid roof with skylights.

The UK Planning Portal is an Official website that works with all Local Authorities across the UK to help simply Planning Advice and the Planning Process for the public: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/

Question: Is the exterior surface of the wall below your leaded light windows just OSB3 without any other cladding?

Answer: No, all the exterior walls, including the wall below the leaded light windows, are finished off with a breathable waterproof membrane over the top of the OSB3 boards, and then cladded with cedar wood shiplap cladding.

This is a ‘belt and braces’ approach where three layers protect against the elements, e.g., in the event of any water ingress through the cedar wood cladding the breathable membrane should drain the water off safely and protect the interior of the conservatory. But in the unlikely event that water finds a way through the breathable membrane, then the OSB3 should give protection and drain the water away.

Also, both the OSB3 boards and the cedar wood cladding are adding a little extra insulation which, in addition to insulating the walls, will help to keep the conservatory that little bit warmer during the winter months and cooler in the summer.

Question: Did you fit your cladding directly to your membrane or did you use batons to fit too?

Answer: Batons would certainly work and have the added advantage of airflow (ventilation) which is always a good thing. But for this build, I fitted the cladding directly to the membrane, which has worked just as well. So as the cladding does a good job of keeping the elements out, and the membrane is just a precaution in the event that the cladding is breached in any way e.g. splitting or warping of the wood; then the use of batons isn't essential, and would be just an additional barrier (extra precaution). Therefore, whether you go that step further, and use batons would be a personal choice.

Question: Great article. How did you join the timber frame walls to the existing building and ensure that it was watertight?

Answer: I used frame fixing screws, the same as you would for fixing a wooden door frame to a brick wall e.g. long, heavy-duty screws that come with their own Rawlplugs (wall plugs). Then used a window and door external frame sealant to make it water tight. The sealants come in tubes and are squeezed out using a sealant gun; all readily available from any DIY store. One tip, once you’ve applied the sealant into the gap is to dip your finger into some warm water and gently run your finger down the surface of the sealant to help cure it. It gives a more professional finish and helps to ensure a good seal between wood and brick.

Question: Hi. How did you get around the problem of damp creeping in from external brickwork into brickwork inside conservatory? I'm looking to build my own but am wondering if I should install a vertical damp course to stop moisture ingress from walls.

Answer: If you are building a timber frame clad in brick or a double brick thick wall, then yes you will need to waterproof the inside of the brick wall (in a way that complies with Building Regulations).

If on the other hand, your wall is a cavity wall e.g. a 3 inch (75mm) gap between the external and internal brick walls, then the gap stops moisture ingress. If you build a cavity wall then the two walls need to be tied together and you would need to fill the gap with suitable insulation to comply with Building Regulations.

Also, as long as the floor level is protected from the ground damp by using DPC (Damp Proof Course) for the walls, and a Damp Proof Membrane is properly laid for solid floors, and provided the roofline of the conservatory is protected by flashing tied into the main house wall, there shouldn’t be a problem. In the UK the DPC (which should be below floor level of your construction) needs to be at least 150mm (6 inches) above ground level.

Arthur Russ (author) from England on August 08, 2020:

It’s a good question Nilanj. Provided it’s built properly e.g. the structure is sound, then both brick and timber are strong. But if poorly built, then both brick and wooden structures can be dangerous.

So provided your construction is structurally sound, and weathered proofed properly e.g. by following building regulations, and built by a professional if you don’t feel competent enough to do the work yourself, then whether you use wood or brick is a matter of personal choice.

Nilanj Desai 2020 yil 7-avgustda:

Congratulations on the results. Looks impressive. I have the same issue - space with timber walls or lose space with brick one. You think, in terms of the strength of structure, it is any different i.e. brick wall vs timber?

Denver on March 30, 2018:

nice

Arthur Russ (author) from England on April 26, 2017:

Thanks for the feedback Jo. What you describe as a sun room isn’t very popular in the UK because of the unpredictability of the British weather. The nearest we have to a sun room in the UK are ‘summer houses’; which are small wooden sheds at the end of the garden with lots of windows, large glass doors and a veranda.

We also like to be closer to nature, but in Britain you don’t know when it’s going to rain (the weather can be very unpredictable and changeable). So as a compromise I installed patio doors in the conservatory (that goes almost the full width), which we can open when the weather’s nice. Also, the French doors into the conservatory from our living room lines up with the patio doors so we get a view of the garden from our sofa; which makes it quite tranquil when both sets of doors are open.

Yes, our conservatory can also get very hot in the summer, but when we open all the windows and doors throughout the house and in the conservatory; the threw draft throughout the whole house helps to keep it cool e.g. the temperature differences in different parts of the house helps to crate air flow, which helps to keep the house and conservatory cooler; even when there’s no breeze outside.

And of course in the winter, with our conservatory being enclosed and insulated, and with the central heating radiator, we can carry on making use of it. My wife tends to use it as a sewing room in the winter, which on a cold but sunny winter’s day gives a very relaxing tranquil view of our back garden.

Thanks for your compliment. I learnt the basics of woodwork at school, but didn’t really start doing DIY until I married; at that time my tools and skills were very limited. My steady progression to my current skills was:-

• Initially teaching myself what I needed to know from library books.

• Having a supportive wife who has always encouraged me.

• Picking up tips from the professionals when we’ve had work done.

• Exchanging skills and knowledge from friends who also do DIY

• Learning Project Management at work, which I’ve found to be an invaluable tool in planning and following through a DIY Project.

• And in more recent years, using the extensive knowledge base on the Internet.

Above all, the three prime factors has been the encouragement from others (particular my wife), the Project Management skills, and having the right mind set e.g. splitting the job into bite size steps, having lots of patience, and reviewing each step before and after completion (usually with a cup of coffee,) before I proceed to the next step. The last point is particularly useful in the event that you make an error or overlook something; as it’s much easier to correct or accommodate into the final build at an early stage.

Jo Miller from Tennessee on April 26, 2017:

We call these sun rooms here in the States. We have a screened porch rather than enclosed sun room. We like to be closer to nature, but that limits it's use in winter time. Sun rooms get very hot in summer here.

Where did you pick up all of your skills. You're very good at this type of activity.

Arthur Russ (author) from England on April 23, 2017:

Thanks Larry.

Larry Rankin from Oklahoma on April 23, 2017:

You always have the coolest ideas!


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